If you didn’t take bracketed images in your camera, but you still want that HDR look, you can pretty much do the entire thing right in Camera Raw by pushing a few sliders to the max.
One of the main things we've always had to go to Photoshop for was retouching portraits, but now, by using the Spot Removal tool, along with the Adjustment Brush, we can do a lot of simple retouching jobs right here in Camera Raw, where they're completely non-destructive and surprisingly flexible.
In this article, we’re looking at the bottom three sliders in the Basic panel: Clarity, Vibrance, and Saturation.
In this article, we’re going to unlock the power of the Adjustment Brush in Adobe Photoshop Camera Raw.
If you're like me and you don't use the histogram on your camera (well, I do use my camera's highlight clipping warning, but technically that's separate from the actual histogram), knowing how the sliders in the Basic panel of Camera Raw affect your histogram can be really helpful.
I come from a traditional film background where we were concerned with nailing the exposure for the shadows and would let the highlights kind of take care of themselves. Today, with digital sensors, it's exactly the opposite. Our main concern is retaining highlight details, making sure that the brightest parts of our images have detail.
In this article, we’ll show you how to set your white balance accurately using a gray card.
Setting your white balance is one of the most important edits you make in Camera Raw because if you do it right, your color will be spot on, and you won't have any color correction problems to deal with later in Photoshop.